90 / 100 Robert Parker From parcels of tiny-berried vines he acquired a decade ago, Keller now presents his inaugural 2006 Westhofener Riesling Abtserde Grosses Gewachs, a wine which was sold only at auction. (“Abtserde” designates the highest in elevation, active lime, and historical renown of the acres that officially constitute the “single vineyard” Brunnenhauschen). Grapefruit laced with wood smoke, peach kernel, and white pepper and chalk give this Riesling brightness, piquancy, and almost sizzling mineral cast that results in a formidable finishing demonstration of sheer grip. A faint bit of gum-numbing phenolics is in evidence but the sheer intensity and strikingly aggressive personality of this wine do not make it seem out of place. It will be fascinating to follow this for at least 2-3 years, and if the pattern set by top dry Keller Riesling holds, it may prove worth holding for longer.
179, The Wine Advocate
