F.X. Pichler, Loibner Oberhauser, Riesling Smaragd 2012

91 / 100 Robert Parker
The F. X. Pichler 2012 Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser projects site-typical ripe apricot tinged with basil, stone and apricot kernel. There is a seductive opulence and richness of texture and fruit character here entirely free of heaviness or heat and leading to a soothingly persistent finish. Plan to enjoy this through at least 2018. “In recent years,” notes Lucas Pichler, “we’ve been harvesting a little earlier in order to depress the alcohol levels a bit,” which in 2012 meant among other things beginning with Gruner Veltliner Federspiel already in the third week of September. After what I had tasted thus far of the vintage, I was amazed to find the Rieslings here in aggregate even finer than the Gruner Veltliners, a pattern that was to be dramatically accentuated at nearby Alzinger. (I did not get chance on my most recent visit to catch-up with Pichlers’ Sauvignon Blanc from this vintage.)
212, The Wine Advocate