Domaine Huët, Vouvray, Le Mont Moelleux Premiere Trie 2003

97 / 100 Robert Parker
The 2003 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie shows a brillant dark golden color with apricot-yellow reflections. Very clear, intense and elegant on the nose, where coffee, toast, brioche, nougat and flinty flavors intertwine with super ripe apricot, licorice and lemon zest aromas, this is a very sweet, extraordinary rich, highly concentrated but also elegant and piquant moelleux with a stunning purity and freshness in the mouthwatering, salty finish. This is a very sweet but remarkably elegant and finesse-full Le Mont whose purity and mineral finish will be mind-blowing in some decades. The 2003 is still too young to be drunk this or during the next decade (if you are lucky to own older Huets, otherwise you won't be hurt by drinking a first better today). Compared to Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont is more focused and defined, less sensual than intellectual maybe. In its elegance, finesse and balance, this 2003 reminds me of the 1945 Le Haut Lieu. But to reach the almost perfect score of the latter, the 2003 has still a long way to age. The Domaine Huet in Vouvray is one of the few world class producers in the Loire Valley. Its reputation was built by 1910-born Gaston Huet and the Le Haut Lieu, a top single vineyard site that was bought by his parents in 1928 with three hectares under vines, all Chenin Blanc.
Interim - November 2015, The Wine Advocate