Champagne Louis Roederer, Cristal, Brut - Gift Box 1988

94 / 100 Robert Parker
The 1988 is a strapping, powerful Cristal. Ripe tropical fruit, butter, spices and smoke are some of the nuances that emerge from this energetic, focused Champagne. This is a rather monolithic Cristal that lacks the elegance of the finest vintages. The 1988 Cristal is unique in that it is the only vintage in which Chardonnay, at 55%, plays the dominant role in the blend. 1988 was a cool year and picking stretched into October. The late harvest largely favored Chardonnay over Pinot Noir. According to Lecaillon, the lesson learned in 1988 was that the estate needed to seriously lower yields on the Pinot in order to achieve proper ripeness. The wine was partially fermented in oak (25%) and 30% of the Pinot Noir underwent malolactic fermentation. This bottle was disgorged in late 2007, and dosage was 8 grams, quite a bit lower than is the norm these days. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.
In the Cellar Mar 2009

93 / 100 Wine Spectator
Intriguing and complex, with enticing aromas of fig, butter and toast, backed by mouth-filling flavors of pear, cream and apple. Long on the finish, too. Gorgeous, refined and balanced. Drink now through 1997.
http://www.winespectator.com/wine/detail/source/search/not..

18.5 / 20 Jancis Robinson
Disgorged June 2006. So very long period on lees. Very different from 1990. Classic vintage: mild July, fine August. 10% so needed to chaptalise, pH was as low as 1996. 54% Pinot Noir, 46% Chardonnay. The Cristal with the most Chardonnay ever. Note bottle variation! Quite dark gold. Not quite perfectly clean nose. Some mushrooms on the palate. Powerful and long and very evolved, Rather transparent. Lovely build on the palate – just the nose slightly dodgy. Our bottle was a bit aggressive and showing slight signs of decay but the other one served was definitely better.
http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tastings/search?keywords=Cri..