93 / 100 Robert Parker Keller’s 2007 Riesling Abts.er.de Grosses Gewachs is labeled with the odd periods to thwart the authorities non-recognition of the Abtserde, a high-elevation, high active lime site officially part of the “single vineyard” Brunnenhauschen. (And, in fact, if you go do www.abtser.de – albeit with a period differently placed –you will find an informative site that intrepid German retail merchant and good friend of Keller’s Tino Seiwert erected.) If you thought there could not be more concentration or piquancy, nor a more pronounced minerality than already experienced with the Keller 2007 Grosse Gewachse, then you did not figure on what is in this glass! Zesty, smoky, faintly bitter intensity of grapefruit and pit fruits with their pits; pumpkin and winter squash with their toasted seeds; an almost ashen but also saline, savory, nutty expression of mineral extract: all inform a Riesling of formidable finishing intensity, if not for now quite the clarity of interplay exhibited by the corresponding Morstein. This may just need longer to really strut its stuff; in any case, anyone lucky enough to latch onto some bottles should visit them at most sparingly during their first decade!
185, The Wine Advocate
