Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Vosne - Romanée, Au Cros Parantoux 2014

94-96 / 100 Robert Parker
The 2014 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux has a really quite wondrous nose that really shows its class. Beautifully defined, very pure, very intense dark berry fruit with a seam of mineralité underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, a fine seam of acidity, great depth and intensity on the finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is a classy Cros Parantoux, maybe the standout from the domaine this year. Of course, the pesky drosophila suzukii cared little for reputation when it appeared in Burgundy in the latter half of August, a pre-harvest surprise to keep vignerons on their toes. It just likes warm, humid conditions and some lovely fresh pulpy grapes to feed upon, red rather than white. Speaking to Jean-Nicolas Méo, he suggested that it was actually his German assistant who first discovered the vector in the region. “He came back from vacation and mentioned the drosophila suzukii in Germany and he was talking about the problems that winemakers were facing. He said that we should check and I didn’t think too much about it. But okay then, go out and have a look. Then he came back and said he found some. I didn't believe him at first. I didn't take it seriously at first because our technicians were more focused on flavescence dorée. We found that we had two or three vineyards that needed attention but it was too late to spray. I am glad we didn't do that. So we checked the vineyard. We didn't succeed in stopping it, but we kept it in check and the good weather helped. Of the vineyard, it was Aux Murgers in Nuits-Saint-Georges that needed the most intervention.” The domaine picked from September 13 until 20 for their reds, the Hautes Côte on September 22. I tasted through their entire range of wines, both “Domaine Méo-Camuzet” from their own vines and their expanding négoçiant range under “Méo-Camuzet Frères & Soeur” (I have labeled them as such so that readers can easily distinguish them). The négoçiant range includes some very fine examples of the vintages, particularly from Nuits-Saint-Georges les Perrières, whilst their Gevrey-Chambertin Villages and Fixin Clos du Chapître are definitely two value offerings that deserve consideration. Also, do not ignore their Meursault Villages. Jean-Nicolas seems to relish getting his hands “blanc” and maybe his enthusiasm shows through in what is an excellent village cru. Among the domaine, it is the Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux that surpassed both Grand Crus (Richebourg and Echézeaux) with its wonderful purity and compelling precision, testifying the greatness of this legendary vineyard. The headline, at least for this writer, was not actually in Vosne. No, what took my fancy was the quality of his three wines from Corton. The Clos Rognet, La Vigne Au Saint and les Perrières are all clean, precise and mineral-laden, and put others such as the Clos Vougeot in the shade.
222, The Wine Advocate

93-96 / 100 Allen Meadow
Once again there is enough reduction present to render the nose difficult to assess though there are wisps of spice and floral nuances discernible in the background. Otherwise there is terrific intensity to the sleek and stony medium weight flavors that possess lovely delineation while delivering simply fantastic length on the ultra-serious and moderately austere finale. This wonderfully refined and restrained effort is also going to require extended cellaring.
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