Domaine Armand Rousseau, Ruchottes - Chambertin, Clos des Ruchottes 2013

92-94 / 100 Robert Parker
The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is another that Frédéric was enthusing over as we tasted through the barrel samples. Sure, it has a refined bouquet: strawberry, raspberry preserve, fine minerality and a touch of undergrowth. For me, the palate does not have the complexity as Mugneret-Gibourg’s or even the Charmes- or Mazis-Chambertin. A second barrel shows more energy and vibrancy, the fruit slightly more confit, so let us see how it turns out once in bottle. There he is again. As I fumbled trying to open the wrought iron gate chez Rousseau, the legend that is Charles Rousseau, innings of 91 not out, exited the small cabin where he spends his day in quiet repose to help me inside. Sure, he looks a little gaunt, his gait slower and fragile, the caducity of life evident to see and yet remains the history of Burgundy made flesh, blood and charisma. Winemaker Frédéric Robert was on hand as usual to guide me through the barrels, always one of the most candid vignerons in Burgundy. Before embarking upon the tasting he mentioned that the fate of the village cru vines from Château de Gevrey has not been decided, choosing to wait until quality reaches a level where it will merit joining their portfolio (no pressure for the vines there then.) However, one parcel owned by the economically-titled ‘Ng’ family has now augmented their plot of Lavaux Saint Jacques. Like many winemakers, Frédéric was somewhat surprised and relieved to find how well their 2013s had turned out, although he cautioned that the barrels can change from day to day (and with this in mind I often tasted from two or three to aim for a representative sample blend.) Here they commenced the harvest on October 1 - as is customary a little earlier than other growers, some of whom unsheathed their secateurs around four days later. But he told me that the fruit seemed to have reached its full ripeness level and with the impending gloomy forecast felt there was little point in waiting. And like others, he found the malolactic fermentation stubbornly slow, though most had finished by the end of May. Unsurprisingly, this was an impressive lineup from Rousseau. As always, it is not a case of every single cru demanding superlatives: some are more successful than others. That's the way the cookie crumbles in a difficult vintage. Terroir's guiding hand plays its role. While both the Chambertin and the Clos-de-Bèze were knockout wines for the vintage, my preference just toward the latter, it was actually the Mazis-Chambertin that really surpassed my expectations in this growing season, just like it had done a couple of hours earlier at Dugat-Py. Indeed, I often find Mazis-Chambertin copes better than say, Latricières or Chapelle-Chambertin in seasons such as 2013: there is a robustness within its DNA, a sense of fortitude and stoicism, a vineyard that prevails come what may. It comes highly recommended. Both the Charmes-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche 2013s possess great potential, though some of the premier crus and village cru appear a little skinnier than I expected and will probably merit more short to midterm aging.
216, The Wine Advocate

18 / 20 Jancis Robinson
20% new oak. A three-sided clos with a path on the fourth. Monopole. 1.06 ha. (Ruchottes in total is 3.3 ha with about seven owners.) Very intense purple fruits with a hint of black pepper and then very luscious fruit. Gorgeous already and quite sinewy. Really racy and pure.
http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tastings/search?keywords=Rou..

93 / 100 Allen Meadow
A discreet touch of wood frames mildly reduced aromas such that I would strongly advise decanting this if you're going to sacrifice a bottle in the interest of "science". There is outstanding delineation and intensity to the refined and pure medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by deceptively pliant tannins on the saline-inflected finish that seems to be constructed from liquid stone, all wrapped in a wonderfully long and pure finish. The reduction aside this is really a lovely effort though note well that ample patience is requisite.
http://www.burghound.com/tnsearch/index.php?id=242987